things i've been doing lately (part three - greece)...

4th June - And so Corfu began our Greek adventures. For the days surrounding our arrival in Corfu, I had been reading 'My Family and Other Animals' by Gerald Durrell. It is just like he describes in the book. A lush green island with so many places still left to explore. We moored at Gouvia marina, a few kilometres from the main town of Corfu. It was fairly late when we arrived, but we went straight out for a taverna dinner - my favourite food in the world. And there we sat at Aries family taverna in Gouvia, very much in Greece. Food arrived on the table plate after plate after plate with just as much wine to accompany it. Then, somewhere between the tzatsiki and the dolmades, the music suddenly got louder, fire shot up from the ground, plates smashed on the tiles and the waiters in the restaurant transformed into amazing dancers. This happened at least three times while we were there, transfixing me each time. And that evening began the great backgammon tornament when we arrived back on board. Welcome to Greece!

5th June - We hired a car from the marina and set off early in the morning to explore the island. Our first stop was yogurt and honey with - for those brave enough - a Greek coffee, beside the sea. After agreeing that Greek yoghurt and honey just isn't nearly the same outside of Greece, we made our way up the hill to a beautiful monastery covered in bouganvillia. Lunch was at a restaurant with the best view in Corfu. Aptly named Bella Vista, we sat on the edge of a huge terrace, perched on the side of a mountain, with beautiful scenes of winding paths through the olive groves, right down to the sea. The afternoon consisted of driving around the island, and getting lost between villages. Every tiny village was picturesque. The men sitting around in the square playing backgammon, worry-beads in hand, sipping ouzo. The women darting about carrying baskets of washing or gathering in the street to have a chat. The children chasing each other and generally being cheeky, and the cats - everywhere.



That evening we all enjoyed another amazing Greek feast - at Taki's taverna, sat around a table absolutely covered in all sorts of fabulous and delicious things. There was a small incident involving Shadow getting just a bit too excited about a cat crossing too far into her territory, which resulted in the table being upturned and red wine splashing, well, everywhere. Full to the brim with the best food in the world, we waddled back to the boat. All of us except my frail 80-something year old grandmother, who jumped on the back of the moped, as we all watched in disbelief!



6th June - As soon as everyone was up and about, a few of us began a speedy last-minute trip around Corfu. We caught a taxi into the main town and wandered the streets. I sipped on my favourite Greek cafe-frappe, and then it was moving time again. We set off for Paxos at midday and moored at the tiny little marina of Longos for the night. The swimming party (Jeff, Shadow and I) found a nice little cove and went for a swim - although we did discover that we were not alone - the rocks were covered in very spiky urchins, not very nice to stand on, so I kept my flip-flops on and didn't put my feet on the bottom. The water was absolutely lovely though. While swimming, we spotted an old stone fortress on the opposite side of the bay, nestled up in the hills. We decided to make it an adventure, so we swam back to the boat, got dressed for dinner and told the others we'd meet them at the restaurant. There was a lovely winding path up the hill as we tried to work out how exactly to get to the fortress. Shadow bounded along ahead of us, very excited to be running and jumping, with lots of new smells to sniff. When we reached the top, we climbed up onto the fortress - a spectacular view of Longos! We waved down to the boat, took some photos, and climbed back down again to head to the restaurant, where the chef invited us into the kitchen to look around and choose what we wanted for dinner! After another wonderful meal, we walked the grandparents back to the boat and the rest of us headed on to a bar right on the waters edge near we we swam earlier that day. Glasses of Metaxa brandy were ordered and the backgammon tornament continued.







7th June - We left Longos early and made our way south, in search of a pretty bay to stay for a while. Scorpios was decided upon - the private island of the Onassis family, just near Ithika. We swam in the bay in the afternoon, making sure we didn't technically set foot on land, as there were armed guards and cameras everywhere. Jeff and I pulled Nanna and Narelle along on an inflatable mattress, which we spend the best part of an hour blowing up, before realising there was a foot-pump on board! The rest of the afternoon consisted of moss-removing, hull-scrubbing and reading.

8th June - Left our pretty little bay after lunch and had a look around Scorpios from the boat. Imagine owning a whole Greek island! It was onward then - an enjoyable three hour sail to Fiskado. Glorious victory was mine that evening as I won the day's backgammon tornament.





9th June - Left Fiskado for Galaxidi, which I seem to remember was fairly long. We spent the day being very worried about family and friends at home, after hearing about the cyclone that hit Newcastle, causing huge floods and lots of damage. Thankfully everyone was ok. Stayed at anchor for the night.

10th June - Took the dinghy in to shore and caught a taxi all the way up the hill to the ancient city of Delphi - one of the most amazing things I have ever seen in my life, I was really looking forward to visiting it again. But it was closed, due to a strike. We couldn't believe it. If I hadn't visited it last time I was in Europe I think I would have sat down and cried. We saw what we could of Delphi without actually going into the site, and caught the taxi all the way back down the hill again.





Our disappointment was made a lot better though, as we sat down to the best breakfast I have ever had in my life. Affectionately known as 'Breakfast at Brunos', it is the courtyard of a hotel in Galaxidi, which was started by an Italian man who has since moved back to Italy, after the new owners promised to keep everything exactly as he had. As we sat in the perfect little shady courtyard, the table began to fill up with the most glorious things - huge jugs of fresh juice, pots of coffee and tea, baskets of every type of bread you could imagine, cheese, different sorts of sliced meats, tapenades and dips of all sorts, giant bowls of fresh fruit, and literally about thirty different types of homemade jams and pickles. It was terrific.



11th June - We sailed through the Corinth Canal in the morning which was very exciting. It looks like the tiniest little gap at first and you really wonder how they get all those boats through it. And then when you see how big it really is, you still wonder how they get all those boats through it!




Moved on to Poros for a night - it was very touristy and therefore not incredibly appealing, seeing as we had been spoilt with tourist-free places until now! Tried out the new marine barbeque, after installing it on deck. A massive feast on board - lots of food, wine and laughing.





12th June - Left early (I really enjoyed the early starts, it's nice to think you are up and about doing things while most people you know are wasting the day sleeping in!) and sailed to Hydra - a really beautiful sail. I realised as soon as we approached the marina that I had been here before and also remembered loving it! I think everyone had a brilliant time in Hydra. Great shopping, brilliant restaurants and bars, donkeys clip-clopping about, beautiful buildings and amazing water views. Climbed up to the bar on the side of the cliff for a late-night cocktail with the others after a lovely day of strolling about, and an amazing dinner in a beautiful restaurant.






13th June - I didn't want to leave. We stayed as long as we possibly could cramming in as much of Hydra as possible. Then it was the last stretch of our trip - Athens. We sailed into Piraeus in the early evening, had one last brilliant taverna meal and returned to the boat.








14th June - I woke up, packed my belongings (which had mysteriously increased after Hydra) and sadly said my goodbyes. I was the first to leave the boat, followed by Nanna and Pop the next day, and Graham two days after that. A taxi, a bus and a short walk later I was sitting in the departure lounge of Athens airport, waiting for my Easyjet flight to London.

things i've been doing lately (part two - croatia)...

Right, so we are in Croatia.



1st June - Had another early start, sailed from our secret cove into the town of Sibonik, and happened upon a huge, bustling morning market. More amazing fresh produce was purchased, including delicious cherries (and so cheap compared to Australia!) and apricots, tomatoes and fresh herbs. Back on board for lunch, we were off again and that afternoon sailed through the river Krk, which was very beautiful.





2nd June - Quite a rough crossing through the night to Kocula. Some of the others were fairly seasick, but I was a brave sailor and made my dad proud! Korcula was perhaps my favorite place in Croatia. The old town stretches out onto a spit towards the sea, and every building looks like a beautiful old castle. A military band marched past me as I strolled through the town, among the exquisite jewelery shops. We left Korcula just after midday and sailed on to Dubrovnik, thankfully the threatening clouds above didn't give us any grief!



3rd June - Jeff and I set out to explore Dubrovnik. We scurried down the marble streets trying to see as much as we possibly could - it's such a beautiful city. We then climbed the walls and walked around the entire perimeter of the old town, looking down on one side to the thousands of terracotta tiled roofs, and on the other side the ocean.





That early afternoon we left Dubrovnik and began the 24 hour crossing to Corfu. During the crossing we were joined late in the evening by a pod of about 10 dolphins, who kept us company for nearly half an hour, jumping beside the boat and swimming right up to the bow, chasing us and splashing about in the wash. You couldn't help but smile watching them, and you'd swear they smiled back! Eventually we had to refer to them as 'long smooth things in the water' without pointing to them, because Shadow (the black furry thing on board) was getting so excited that she was running around madly on deck, barking hysterically and leaning right over the side of the boat to watch them. After the dolphins swam away it was into the night we went, night watches started as we skimmed the coast of Albania, and as the sun came up there it was, beckoning ahead - the lush green island of Corfu.

things i've been doing lately (part one - italy)...

Well, I have been very slack with this lately, I admit. But now I have come back to Avignon and should be settled in one place again for at least a little while, so there is no excuse for not blogging.

I arrived back in Avignon on Saturday night, after a series of adventures through Italy, Croatia, Greece and England. Most of the trip was a family affair, as I joined s/y Barinia in Venice where Narelle and Patrick, my uncle Graham and my Grandparents were already on board.

25th May - Caught train from Avignon to Nice after literally zero sleep and having to move everything from one appartment to another by myself, in the space of 15 minutes. Then I had an hour to clean my old appartment perfectly before leaving. Des and I power-walked to the station still in the clothes we were wearing the night before, lugging my bags down the street and speaking in some sort of ridiculous language due to serious tiredness (why oh why did the student farewell party have to be the night before?!) Made the train just in time. In a semi-asleep state I arrived in Nice, walked as far as I could laiden with about 30kg of bags before collapsing with exhaustion and waited for Narelle to pick me up. Narelle, Patrick and Graham arrived a couple of hours later and we decided that we were all too tired to drive straight to Venice, so we had a lovely dinner in Valbonne (one of my favorite towns) and stayed overnight at the house in Antibes.

26th May - All rested and refreshed, the next morning we had an early start at one of my other favorite places in France - the Antibes market, where we stocked up on chevre, tapenade, and some other yummy Provencal delights, and made our way to Venice. We stuck mainly to the motorway - stopped for a delicious Italian feast at a road-side restaurant, recited some quick Shakespeare as we passed through Verona, and arrived in Venice in the early evening.




27th May - The Cipriani hotel in Venice just has to be seen to be believed. Each time I am there I just get blown away by how amazing it is and how filthy, filthy rich it's guests are. We remain discreet staying on the boat moored behind the hotel, but to go anywhere we have to walk through the hotel's pool area, bar and foyer. Waiting for the hotel's private speed boat to arrive, it is a constant parade of guests dripping with Gucci, Chanel and Prada. I look at these people and wonder who they are to think nothing of paying 3000 euros a night to be staying here. The boat arrives and Marco lets me ride up the front with him and points out things of interest as we cross the Grand Canal (much more interesting than just lounging on the Vercace cushions at the back of the boat). Had a wander around Venice, met the others for dinner and returned to Giudecca that evening.



28th May - An early start, Marco took me over to St Marks square where I went to Sunday mass! Something i have always wanted to do, and because it was the feast of Pentecost, it was a huge, full Italian mass. Then on my way back to the Cipriani, Marco told me that the Vogalonga regatta was about to begin! Back on the boat we saw most of the teams arriving on the Grand Canal. Then, as the Canal was closed for the afternoon, Marco had no guests to shuttle back an forth from Giudecca, so he offered to take us all out to the edge of the Canal where we watched the race! Best seats in the house! There were boats of all shapes and sizes, and all types of people as well - some were totally professional, with matching uniforms and gleaming gondolas, and others just rowing along with their whole families in row-boats. There were a few big Galleons also, which were quite spectacular. That evening we left Venice, always a sad day, but with great adventures ahead of us! We sailed about an hour to Chioggia - Italy's largest fishing port - and a very lovely, friendly place. We moored for the night.



29th May - Wandered around Chioggia. No tourists at all - very Italian, amazing afternoon bars where you buy a drink and you are free to take anything to eat from the bar - which is laiden with cheeses, olives, pizza, sandwiches, its incredible. No one could ever possibly starve in Italy, wherever you go they feed you.



30th May - An early start and a walk through the early morning Chioggia markets, one of the most amazing fish markets I have ever seen (it even rivals Sydney) and streets full of deli stalls and fruit and vegetable carts. That afternoon we left Chioggia and sailed another short distance to San Pietro Involta (a tiny town close by) where we moored for the night. Jeff, Patrick, Graham and I spent the evening in Bar Da Anna drinking Prosecco and Aperol and meeting some hilarious locals. One man told us all about his oyster farm and tried desperately to convince us that we needed him to work on the boat so that he could come to Greece! Jeff and I half expected him to be stowed away on the deck somewhere the next morning!



31st May - Ciao Italia! We set sail at 5am into open waters, heading for Croatia. It seemed our mad friend had decided to stay at his oyster farm as he was nowhere to be seen. It was a 14 hour sail into Croatian waters, during which Patrick, Narelle, Graham, Jeff and I took turns on watch. We stopped briefly in Mali Losenj to refuel and restock, then found a picturesque bay which we had all to ourselves to anchor for the night. Jeff, Shadow the dog and I took the dingy ashore to explore the bay. We walked around to the outcrop where the ocean lapped at a shore made of solid marble - this area was the source of most of marble in Venice! Back on the boat, we changed into our swimmers and jumped over the side - my first real swim of the summer. The water was a rich, clear blue and we could see the anchor chain drop for metres and metres and metres before it disappeared into nothing.

its all greek to me

well here i am on the island of poros in greece! have been flitting about greece for the last 2 weeks, after a week in italy and croatia at the beginning. am having a lovely lovely time... but it is nearly over. i fly out of athens on thursday, staying for 2 nights in london with maddie, then fly onto marseille on saturday afternoon, so should be back in good old avignon by saturday night. good news, have had official confirmation from the embassy that the job in dijon is going ahead and is definately mine - so i am very happy. i will be moving to dijon at the end of september, and until then i think some serious travelling is in order. well, i must be off as i think i am about to be kicked off the internet. we are sailing to hydra this afternoon, and then on to athens! oh it is lush.